Bra Sizing & Shape

Your band is too loose. The band should sit horizontally and firmly all the way around. Fix: Go down one band size and up one cup size (sister size). Start on the loosest hook — you'll tighten as the band stretches.

The cup is too large or too tall for your shape. Fix: Try a demi or half-cup style which has shorter cup height. Or go down one cup size. If you're full-on-bottom shaped, tall cups will always gape.

Your cup is too small or the style is too shallow for your shape. Fix: Go up one cup size. If you're full-on-top shaped, switch to an unlined or stretch-lace style — stiff moulded cups dig into upper fullness.

The underwire is too narrow for your breast root width, or the cup is too small causing the wire to sit on tissue. Fix: Go up one cup size so the wire sits flat against your ribcage. Look for wide-wire or full-coverage styles.

Digging in: Your band is too loose so the straps carry all the weight. Fix the band first — straps should only carry 10% of support. Falling off: Try a racerback converter or look for styles with closer-set strap anchors.

Your breasts are projected or close-set and the gore is too tall. Fix: Try a plunge bra with a lower centre wire. If you are projected shaped, look for 3-part seamed cups which have immediate depth at the wire.

The band is too tight or too narrow for your torso. Fix: Go up one band size. Look for bands labelled "wide band" or with side boning — they distribute pressure over more skin and prevent the pinching effect.

Your cup size is too small — the wire can't reach your breast root. Fix: Go up one or two cup sizes. The wire should sit completely flat on your ribcage and encircle all breast tissue without touching any of it.

Your wire is too narrow for your breast width, or the cup is too small to contain the tissue. Fix: Go up a cup size and look for full-coverage or side-support styles specifically. Avoid balconettes if this is a persistent issue.

Your breast shape is projected and the moulded foam cup is shallower than your forward projection. Fix: Switch to unlined or lightly-lined fabric cups (seamed cups). These flex to your shape rather than forcing your shape into a pre-formed shell.

Your band is too loose — it has nothing to anchor against. Fix: Go down one band size. On a correct fitting bra you should only be able to fit two fingers under the band, and it should not move when you raise your arms above your head.

You have a full-on-top breast shape but are wearing a standard or full-cup style. Fix: Try plunge or stretch-lace styles that are open at the top. Avoid stiff moulded tops that cut across upper fullness — they create the empty base effect.

Natural breast tissue volume increases slightly throughout the day due to posture and activity. Fix: Try a size that accommodates your slightly larger evening measurement. If the underwire is the source of pain, try seamed fabric cups which flex more.

You need a smoother cup finish for fitted tops. Fix: Switch to a seamless moulded T-shirt bra in your size. If you are projected shaped and moulded cups don't work for you, try a lightly-lined spacer fabric bra which is virtually invisible under clothes.

Breast asymmetry is extremely common — most people have a dominant side. Fix: Always fit to your larger side. Use a thin removable pad in the smaller cup if needed. Avoid heavily moulded cups that enforce equal size — soft fabric cups adapt naturally.

Your band is too loose so straps are carrying all the weight — they should only carry about 10%. Fix: Tighten the band size first. Once the band does its job, straps can be loosened significantly. Also try wide-strap or cushioned-strap styles for large cup sizes.

The band is too tight, or the band fabric is too narrow or stiff. Fix: Go up one band size and check you're starting on the loosest hooks. Also look for bands labelled "comfort band" or that use a wider elastic — they spread the load over more surface area.

Your cup shape is too shallow for your projected breast shape. The wire is sitting too far forward. Fix: Look for seamed 3-part cups or vertical-seam cups which are deepest closest to the wire. Avoid single-piece moulded cups entirely if you have high projection.

The wire is under constant stress because it's sitting on breast tissue rather than your ribcage. Fix: This is a strong signal your cup is too small. Go up at least one cup size so the wire can rest on bone. Also check you're washing the bra in a lingerie bag — machine washing without one destroys wires.

You likely have an east-west or wide-set breast shape — tissue naturally sits toward the sides. Fix: Look for bras with side-support panels that push tissue toward centre. Push-up styles with angled padding work well. Plunge bras with a low bridge also help create the appearance of separation.